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Botanicals & ferments

Mugwort

Also listed as Artemisia princeps extract, Artemisia vulgaris extract, Artemisia annua extract and Ssuk

Emerging evidence Up to 100% extract in some essences; usually undisclosed

Mugwort (artemisia) extracts come from aromatic Artemisia plants used in Korean and Japanese traditional medicine. They feature in K-beauty essences, toners and masks marketed for calming and soothing.

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What it does

The short version.

Artemisia extracts are rich in polyphenols and other compounds with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity in cell and animal studies. One lab study found Artemisia princeps extract increased production of skin barrier proteins (filaggrin and loricrin) in keratinocytes. In products they are used to calm the look of redness and support comfortable, hydrated skin, but human clinical evidence is limited.

Emerging evidence

Evidence comes mainly from lab and animal studies; well-designed human trials of mugwort skin care are lacking.

Reach for it for

SoothingRednessHydratingAntioxidant

Usually a good fit for

Sensitive skinCombination skinAcne-prone skinNormal skin

How to use it

Getting it right.

Pat a mugwort essence or toner onto clean skin before serums, or use as a wash-off mask, after a patch test.

Layering

Friends & frenemies.

Pairs well with

Centella asiaticaNiacinamideHyaluronic acidPanthenolCeramides

Go slow with

Tea tree oilPropolis

Not forbidden — just easier to over-do. Alternate nights or separate morning and evening.

Before you start

Artemisia species belong to the daisy (Compositae) family and can cause allergic contact dermatitis through sesquiterpene lactones; people with ragweed, chrysanthemum or mugwort pollen allergy should patch test or avoid it.

References

  1. 1Antioxidant Artemisia princeps Extract Enhances the Expression of Filaggrin and Loricrin via the AHR/OVOL1 Pathway — International Journal of Molecular Sciences (2017), via PubMed Central
  2. 2Allergic contact dermatitis associated with mugwort (Artemisia vulgaris) — Contact Dermatitis (2010), via PubMed

Educational, not medical advice. Ingredient guides summarise published research and expert guidance; formulas and concentrations differ between products.

No mugwort products reviewed yet.

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